Descriptif
Description
The course is divided in three main parts: (1) Characterizing waves and describing the important
physical processes governing oceanic and nearshore wave propagation, (2) Numerical modeling of
wave propagation, and (3) Wave-structure interactions. The course is organized in 9 sessions comprised of lectures and project development.
Objectifs pédagogiques
The objective of this course is to introduce students to sea states and waves, as well as the dominant
physical processes controlling wave propagation and their interaction with structures. In class, we
will use linear wave theory to describe basic wave characteristics, before introducing more nonlinear
wave theories. Then, we will introduce the different families of wave propagation models that exist
to familiarize students with the different types of mathematical and numerical models, including
their advantages and disadvantages, and their range of applicability. Finally, the last objective of the
class is to investigate wave-structure interactions, in particular in the context of renewable energy,
focusing on how to define design criteria for offshore structures, including using both academic and
industrial numerical modeling approaches.
At the end of the course, a student should be able to:
⇒ describe wave characteristics using deterministic and spectral approaches,
⇒ understand the different physical processes governing wave transformation at a range of spatial and temporal scales, from wind generation to interactions with the bottom,
⇒ evaluate the appropriate numerical modeling approaches to use for different applications,
⇒ understand the physical processes governing wave-body interactions,
⇒ estimate the absorbed wave energy of a wave energy converter, and
⇒ evaluate the application of industrial and academic numerical modeling approaches to simulate
wave-structure interactions.
Diplôme(s) concerné(s)
Parcours de rattachement
Format des notes
Numérique sur 20Littérale/grade réduitPour les étudiants du diplôme Echanges PEI
Le rattrapage est autorisé (Note de rattrapage conservée)Pour les étudiants du diplôme M2 Water, Air, Pollution and Energy
Le rattrapage est autorisé (Note de rattrapage conservée)- Crédits ECTS acquis : 3 ECTS
La note obtenue rentre dans le calcul de votre GPA.
Pour les étudiants du diplôme MScT-Energy Environment : Science Technology & Management
Le rattrapage est autorisé (Note de rattrapage conservée)- Crédits ECTS acquis : 4 ECTS
La note obtenue rentre dans le calcul de votre GPA.
Programme détaillé
1. Characterizing ocean waves and sea states (23/09/2022, M. Yates)
• Introduction to class
• Description of waves
• Sea state characterization (wave-by-wave, spectral analysis)
• Wave observation techniques and databases
Project: Description of class project and site selection
2. Linear wave theory (30/09/2022, M. Yates)
• Linearization of the water wave problem
• Dispersion relation
• Wave kinematics and approximations in shallow and deep water
• Nonlinear wave theories (Stokes, Cnoidal, stream function)
Project: Using wave buoy measurements or simulation results (ResourceCode) at the study
sites to generate scatter diagrams and to characterize wave variability.
3. Nearshore wave propagation (07/10/2022, M. Yates)
• Wave energy flux conservation
• Bathymetric refraction
• Wave shoaling
Project: Calculating mean and extreme wave conditions at the study sites and collecting
bathymetric data.
4. Coastal hydrodynamics (14/10/2022, M. Yates)
• Characterization of wave breaking
• Wave breaking impacts (undertow, setup, longshore currents)
• Surf zone circulation (rip currents, eddies)
• Infragravity waves and impacts
• Wave-current interactions
Class presentations: Students work in groups to present subjects selected during class 2
5. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 1 (21/10/2022, J. Harris)
• Review of important physical processes to model
• Differentiating phase-averaged and phase-resolving models
• Presentation of phase-averaged (spectral) models
Project: Introduction to wave model to be used in the project
6. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 2 (28/10/2022, J. Harris)
• Solving the Navier-Stokes equations
• Fully nonlinear potential flow models
• Boussinesq-type models
• Mild-slope equations
Project: Wave transformation from deep to shallow water at the study sites.
7. Dynamics of a body in waves (18/11/2022, J. Harris)
• Diffraction of a monopile
• Nondimensional numbers (Re, F r, KC) and similitude
• Derivation of Morison equation
• Experimental approaches
Project: Wave force estimation for the mean and extreme wave conditions
8. Modeling wave-body interactions (02/12/2022, C. Peyrard)
• External forces applied on a body in waves : Froude-Krylov, diffraction, drag, lift, buoyancy
• Equation of motions
• Morison equation (small bodies)
• Diffraction-radiation problem (large bodies)
• Second and higher-order effects
• Industrial codes and open research questions
Project: Calculate the movement of a fixed or floating wind turbine
9. Offshore wind turbine foundations (09/12/2022, C. Peyrard)
• Fixed and floating offshore wind turbines
• Pilot project sites
• Design criteria, challenges, current needs for research
Project: Finish up project calculations and report, prepare presentation
10. Project presentations (16/12/2022, M. Yates)
