Descriptif
The course is taugh in english. It divided in three main parts: (1) Characterizing waves and describing the
important physical processes governing oceanic and nearshore wave propagation, (2) Numerical
modeling of wave propagation, and (3) Ocean wave energy, including wave-structure interactions.
At the end of the course, a student should be able to:
- describe wave characteristics using deterministic and spectral approaches,
- understand the different physical processes governing wave transformation at a range of spatial
and temporal scales, from wind generation to interactions with the bottom,
- evaluate the appropriate numerical modeling approaches to use for different applications,
- understand the physical processes governing wave-body interactions,
- estimate the absorbed wave energy of a wave energy converter, and
- evaluate the application of industrial and academic numerical modeling approaches to simulate wave-structure interactions.
Format des notes
Numérique sur 20Littérale/grade réduitPour les étudiants du diplôme M2 WAPE - Eau, Pollution de l'Air et Energies
L'UE est acquise si Note finale >= 10- Crédits ECTS acquis : 3 ECTS
Programme détaillé
Syllabus
I. Characterizing ocean waves and sea states
- Description of waves
- Sea state characterization (wave-by-wave, spectral analysis)
- Wave observation techniques and databases
II. Linear wave theory
- Linearization of the water wave problem
- Dispersion relation
- Wave kinematics and approximations in shallow and deep water
- Nonlinear wave theories (Stokes, Cnoidal, stream function)
Exercise: Using wave buoy measurements to generate scatter diagrams and to characterize
wave variability at an offshore study site.
III. Nearshore wave propagation
- Wave energy flux conservation
- Bathymetric refraction
- Wave shoaling
Exercise: Using a one-line model to calculate wave transformation in the surf zone (and
comparison to wave tank experiments).
IV. Coastal hydrodynamics
- Characterization of wave breaking
- Wave breaking impacts (undertow, setup, alongshore currents)
- Surf zone circulation (rip currents, eddies)
- Infragravity waves and impacts
- Wave-current interactions
V. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 1
- Review of important physical processes to model
- Differentiating phase-averaged and phase-resolving models
- Presentatin of phase-averaged (spectral) models
Exercise: Running TOMAWAC spectral wave propagation model to simulate wave propagation
in the nearshore zone.
VI. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 2
- Review of the Navier-Stokes equations
- Mild-slope equations
- Boussinesq-type models
- Fully nonlinear potential flow theory models
- Navier-Stokes models (Eulerian and Lagrangian approaches)
Class presentations: Students work in groups to present the different families of deterministic
wave propagation models.
VII. Dynamics of a body in waves
- Nondimensional numbers (Re, Fr, KC) and similitude
- Added mass, drag, lift, buoyancy
- Morison equation (small bodies)
- Diffraction-radiation problem (large bodies)
- Second and higher-order effects
Exercise: Use of wave scatter diagrams to calculate absorbed wave energy at the selected study
site for selected wave energy converters.
VIII. Modeling wave-body interactions
- Industrial codes and open research questions
- Experimental approaches
- Academic models:
- Linear theory
- Fully nonlinear potential flow theory
- Navier-Stokes equations
Exercise: Use of wave scatter diagrams to calculate wave forces on a floating body at the
selected offshore study site.
IX. Seminar about wave-structure interactions (presented by a representative from a company
working in the field of marine renewable energy):
Subject:
- fixed and floating offshore wind turbines or
- wave energy converters
Objectives:
- present pilot project, study site, or existing installation
- discuss design criteria, challenges, current needs for research
X. Exam
