Format des notes
Numérique sur 20
Littérale/grade américain
Pour les étudiants du diplôme M2 WAPE - Eau, Air, Pollution et Énergies
Le rattrapage est autorisé (Note de rattrapage conservée)- le rattrapage est obligatoire si :
- Note initiale < 7
- le rattrapage peut être demandé par l'étudiant si :
- Note initiale < 7
L'UE est acquise si Note finale >= 10- Crédits ECTS acquis : 3 ECTS
La note obtenue rentre dans le calcul de votre GPA.
Programme détaillé
Syllabus
I. Characterizing ocean waves and sea states
- Description of waves
- Sea state characterization (wave-by-wave, spectral analysis)
- Wave observation techniques and databases
II. Linear wave theory
- Linearization of the water wave problem
- Dispersion relation
- Wave kinematics and approximations in shallow and deep water
- Nonlinear wave theories (Stokes, Cnoidal, stream function)
*Exercise: Using wave buoy measurements to generate scatter diagrams and to characterize*
*wave variability at an offshore study site.*
III. Nearshore wave propagation
- Wave energy flux conservation
- Bathymetric refraction
- Wave shoaling
*Exercise: Using a one-line model to calculate wave transformation in the surf zone (and*
*comparison to wave tank experiments).*
IV. Coastal hydrodynamics
- Characterization of wave breaking
- Wave breaking impacts (undertow, setup, alongshore currents)
- Surf zone circulation (rip currents, eddies)
- Infragravity waves and impacts
- Wave-current interactions
V. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 1
- Review of important physical processes to model
- Differentiating phase-averaged and phase-resolving models
- Presentatin of phase-averaged (spectral) models
*Exercise: Running TOMAWAC spectral wave propagation model to simulate wave propagation*
*in the nearshore zone.*
VI. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 2
- Review of the Navier-Stokes equations
- Mild-slope equations
- Boussinesq-type models
- Fully nonlinear potential flow theory models
- Navier-Stokes models (Eulerian and Lagrangian approaches)
*Class presentations: Students work in groups to present the different families of deterministic*
*wave propagation models.*
VII. Dynamics of a body in waves
- Nondimensional numbers (Re, Fr, KC) and similitude
- Added mass, drag, lift, buoyancy
- Morison equation (small bodies)
- Diffraction-radiation problem (large bodies)
- Second and higher-order effects
*Exercise: Use of wave scatter diagrams to calculate absorbed wave energy at the selected study*
*site for selected wave energy converters.*
VIII. Modeling wave-body interactions
- Industrial codes and open research questions
- Experimental approaches
- Academic models:
- Linear theory
- Fully nonlinear potential flow theory
- Navier-Stokes equations
*Exercise: Use of wave scatter diagrams to calculate wave forces on a floating body at the*
*selected offshore study site.*
IX. Seminar about wave-structure interactions (presented by a representative from a company
working in the field of marine renewable energy):
Subject:
- fixed and floating offshore wind turbines or
- wave energy converters
Objectives:
- present pilot project, study site, or existing installation
- discuss design criteria, challenges, current needs for research
X. Exam
