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2.12.23 (872)

Cours scientifiques - MEC_5EO04_TA : Sea states, wave propagation, and ocean wave energy

Descriptif

The course is taugh in english. It divided in three main parts: (1) Characterizing waves and describing the important physical processes governing oceanic and nearshore wave propagation, (2) Numerical modeling of wave propagation, and (3) Ocean wave energy, including wave-structure interactions. At the end of the course, a student should be able to: - describe wave characteristics using deterministic and spectral approaches, - understand the different physical processes governing wave transformation at a range of spatial and temporal scales, from wind generation to interactions with the bottom, - evaluate the appropriate numerical modeling approaches to use for different applications, - understand the physical processes governing wave-body interactions, - estimate the absorbed wave energy of a wave energy converter, and - evaluate the application of industrial and academic numerical modeling approaches to simulate wave-structure interactions.

Format des notes

Numérique sur 20

Littérale/grade américain

Pour les étudiants du diplôme Track : Energy Environment : Science Technology & Management

Le rattrapage est autorisé (Max entre les deux notes)
  • le rattrapage est obligatoire si :
    Note initiale < 10
  • le rattrapage peut être demandé par l'étudiant si :
    Note initiale < 10
L'UE est acquise si Note finale >= 10
  • Crédits ECTS acquis : 4 ECTS

La note obtenue rentre dans le calcul de votre GPA.

Pour les étudiants du diplôme M2 Mech - Maj. WAPE - Eau, Air, Pollution et Energies

Le rattrapage est autorisé (Note de rattrapage conservée)
  • le rattrapage est obligatoire si :
    Note initiale < 7
  • le rattrapage peut être demandé par l'étudiant si :
    Note initiale < 7
L'UE est acquise si Note finale >= 10
  • Crédits ECTS acquis : 3 ECTS

La note obtenue rentre dans le calcul de votre GPA.

Programme détaillé

Syllabus I. Characterizing ocean waves and sea states - Description of waves - Sea state characterization (wave-by-wave, spectral analysis) - Wave observation techniques and databases II. Linear wave theory - Linearization of the water wave problem - Dispersion relation - Wave kinematics and approximations in shallow and deep water - Nonlinear wave theories (Stokes, Cnoidal, stream function) *Exercise: Using wave buoy measurements to generate scatter diagrams and to characterize* *wave variability at an offshore study site.* III. Nearshore wave propagation - Wave energy flux conservation - Bathymetric refraction - Wave shoaling *Exercise: Using a one-line model to calculate wave transformation in the surf zone (and* *comparison to wave tank experiments).* IV. Coastal hydrodynamics - Characterization of wave breaking - Wave breaking impacts (undertow, setup, alongshore currents) - Surf zone circulation (rip currents, eddies) - Infragravity waves and impacts - Wave-current interactions V. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 1 - Review of important physical processes to model - Differentiating phase-averaged and phase-resolving models - Presentatin of phase-averaged (spectral) models *Exercise: Running TOMAWAC spectral wave propagation model to simulate wave propagation* *in the nearshore zone.* VI. Numerical modeling of wave propagation 2 - Review of the Navier-Stokes equations - Mild-slope equations - Boussinesq-type models - Fully nonlinear potential flow theory models - Navier-Stokes models (Eulerian and Lagrangian approaches) *Class presentations: Students work in groups to present the different families of deterministic* *wave propagation models.* VII. Dynamics of a body in waves - Nondimensional numbers (Re, Fr, KC) and similitude - Added mass, drag, lift, buoyancy - Morison equation (small bodies) - Diffraction-radiation problem (large bodies) - Second and higher-order effects *Exercise: Use of wave scatter diagrams to calculate absorbed wave energy at the selected study* *site for selected wave energy converters.* VIII. Modeling wave-body interactions - Industrial codes and open research questions - Experimental approaches - Academic models: - Linear theory - Fully nonlinear potential flow theory - Navier-Stokes equations *Exercise: Use of wave scatter diagrams to calculate wave forces on a floating body at the* *selected offshore study site.* IX. Seminar about wave-structure interactions (presented by a representative from a company working in the field of marine renewable energy): Subject: - fixed and floating offshore wind turbines or - wave energy converters Objectives: - present pilot project, study site, or existing installation - discuss design criteria, challenges, current needs for research X. Exam
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